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Senin, 27 April 2009

Profitable Plants To Grow In Your Greenhouse

Author: Gerald Mason

Here are some profit making plants to grow in your greenhouse Philodendron and Pothos

It is truly hard to beat philodendron and pothos for planters or use as specimens. Philodendron cor datum is the one with the green heart-shaped leaves. Pothos' leaves are also heart-shaped but are marbleized. Southern growers can produce small plants in quantity for sale in markets, as well as florist shops, and at a price northern growers cannot hope to meet. But it may pay you to obtain stock and propagate your own small plants or grow them on and sell them as larger specimen plants.

Philodendron pertusum starts out with a complete heart-shaped leaf, and as the leaves mature they split into interesting designs. These plants are native to regions of torrential rains. Nature endows the leaves with these splits so the rain can pour through without injury to the leaf. The "adult" plants of this species are the ones we know as cut-leaf philodendron or Monstera deliciosa.

Because of the abundance of existing sources of supply, you would be wise to check carefully for potential business before you go heavily into production of pothos or philodendrons.

Pilea
Pilea is ideal for the 2-inch pot sales. Grown mainly for foliage, it ranges from fernlike Pilea microphylla (or P. muscosa), the artillery plant, through P. involucaira (friendship plant) with crinkled bronze leaves, to P. cadieri, the so-called aluminum plant.

Ordinary potting soil meets the requirements of these plants. They grow rapidly in 60 to 70 degrees if kept thoroughly watered, and take medium light.

Propagate pilea through cuttings or basal shoots. Cuttings taken in late January will make salable plants by May.

From one mature plant of P. involucatra in a 4-inch pot, I was able to obtain fifty cuttings. This being a great favorite at plant counters, I sold my plants to the retailer for 25 cents each; the retail price was fixed at 49 cents each.

Plectranthus
From Australia and Africa comes plectranthus, the spur plant. This rapid grower, a relative of coleus, is a real find for the 2-inch pot. There are a number of species, but only the one named Plectranthus Oertendahli is obtainable in America. This plant has hairy, silver-veined green leaves and red petioles; sprays of dainty mauve flowers decorate it most of the year. In my collection is an unidentified one having smooth, waxy green leaves that on warm humid days give off a fragrance like rose talcum powder. I hope some day to have sufficient time to propagate this unusual plant and distribute it. I think it deserves a place among the green trailers used in the indoor garden.

Plectranthus sets its own seeds. Sow these little spheres in any light soil mixture. Seed sown in January produces flowering plants by July, and you can prick them out of the flats and plant directly into 2-inch pots of porous soil. To insure a superior floral display your plectranthus plants should be fed dilute fertilizer at 10-day intervals after they have been potted for 6 weeks.

Prayer Plant
Of interesting foliage and growth habit is Maranta kerchoveana, the prayer plant. The leaves of soft green are blotched with dark brown. At night maranta folds its leaves upward as if in supplication-thus giving rise to the common name.

Grow this one in ½ peatmoss, ½ loam. Give it plenty of drainage and a warm greenhouse. Propagation is by plant division.

Rivina Humilus
Among the prettier of the rapid-growing house plants is white-flowered, red-fruited Rivina humilus, the rouge berry plant. Successive plantings of seeds or cuttings will give you plants with flowers and fruit for easy sale through the year. It is an especially good seller for fall and winter holidays. Seeds germinate in about 10 days, and the plants will flower and fruit 4 months after seed sowing-in 2 to 3 months from cuttings. A warm house of 70 degrees is to their liking; they grow in sun or slight shade. Symmetry can be produced by pinching out tips on older plants. Pot directly from the flat to 2-inch pots, a valuable time-saver.

Royal Poinciana
Although not strictly classed as a pot plant, the royal poinciana tree (Delonix regia or Poinciana regia) is so easily grown from seed into a ferny little shrub that it is a splendid subject for the dish garden. It will stay small enough for indoor use for some time.

Seeds resemble large beans. Plant them in any good soil; they pop up in a week or less. Their chief requirement is water; if you forget this, the leaves will fall all over the place. These plants have the intriguing habit of folding their leaves toward evening.

Ruellia
Pretty leaves, pretty flowers, and easy to grow that's Ruellia macrantha. With olive green leaves daintily marked in white and rosy-purple petunia-like blooms, it is a real eye-catcher. Propagate through cuttings inserted into light soil or other rooting media. Three or 4 months bring you plants ready for 2-inch pots. Flowers last several days; and ruellia becomes more beautiful if given monthly feedings of liquid fertilizer. Temperatures of 60 to 70 degrees, moderate light, and ordinary soil are the growth requirements.

Samevieria
Called sword plant or snake plant, this tough individual remains high on the popularity list with people who dislike the fuss and bother of caring for flowering plants. Sansevieria is also invaluable for poorly-lighted indoor areas. It grows in virtually any soil, in temperatures from 60 to 80 degrees. Improved forms of the old-fashioned snake plant are numerous. This, however, is another case of a plant in plentiful supply; so check your market first. One gardener made a considerable profit by selling these plants to residents of housing projects.

Many of these folks have indoor planters and, while they like to see something growing in them, they cannot afford the more expensive green plants. For such planters a combination of sansevieria, anthericum (spider plant), and Chinese evergreen is hard to equal. All these plants can be offered at a price these householders-mainly young people can afford to pay. Sansevieria propagates easily from 2-inch cuttings of the swordlike leaves.

Propagate both philodendron and pothos by tip cuttings or leaf-bud cuttings. They root rapidly in any soil in temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees, and grow best in somewhat shady areas.Terminal cuttings taken in February will produce 2-inch potted plants in about 3 months.

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Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Profitable Plants To Grow In Your Greenhouse

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Selasa, 07 April 2009

I Love Growing Herbs

Author: Harvey Robinson

I love growing herb plants, they are cheap and easy to grow, they grow well indoors through the winter and I get to eat them. Herb plants grown well in cheap plastic plant containers. I got a stack of them out of the trash dumpster behind my local plant store. A few packets of seeds, some salvaged containers, some dirt and it is amazing how much will grow.

Most herbs are tough wild plants which thrive when pampered by gardeners. Having a few of the basic cooking herbs growing in containers is convenient because they are all a few steps from my kitchen. If I decide I need an herb in the middle of cooking, I cut a little fresh without having to drive to the store. Herbs can be harvested by simply cutting off what you need, I keep a small pair of scissors just for that. Cooking with fresh herbs is much better than the dried stuff they call herbs that come in little plastic containers. The flavor of fresh herbs is better but the potency of dried herbs is about three times that of fresh, so if you are using fresh herbs in a recipe that called for dried herbs, keep this in mind.

Herbs and spices - Culinary herbs are different from spices. For the most part, culinary herbs are fresh or dried leaves. Spices are seeds, roots, fruits, flowers, and bark. Culinary herbs usually have a mild flavor while spices tend to have a stronger, pungent flavor.

Annuals, Biennials and Perennials - Annuals bloom one season, put out a lot of seeds and die, biennial herbs live two seasons, blooming the second season only, perennial herbs bloom each season once established and can be propagated by division or cuttings.

What to grow? - Grow what you like to eat. If you cook a lot, you probably already have some idea what herbs you'd like. I grow some herbs because they are used in cuisines I like to eat. Cilantro for Mexican food, basil and rosemary for Italian.

Lavender, rosemary, bay laurel, marjoram, dill, oregano, sage and thyme are all easy to grow cooking herbs. This will start you out with herbs you can eat. They are all from the mild, dry climate of the Mediterranean and grow well together. They need well draining soil, bright sun, and moderate temperatures. Many of the Mediterranean herbs are very sensitive to soil moisture conditions. Raised beds are sometimes needed to provide the necessary drainage. Oregano, and thyme have tried to take over my garden many times. Now I put them in pots, and sink them into the ground. They grow better this way also because I can use soils that drain better just for them. Some of the best easy-to-grow herbs will take over the garden if you do not watch them.

Every herb garden needs at least five kinds of basil. Basil, is not really a mediterranean herb and needs more water. Parsley, chervil, and mint grow best on soils which retain moisture. Chamomile and mints are always good to have growing for tea. Mints are another plant that are good to grow in pots because once they get going they will quickly overwhelm other plants. Peppermint does not produce seeds and can only be propagated by cuttings.

Mints, oregano, rosemary, thyme, and tarragon, should be purchased as plants or propagated by cuttings. If you are planting herb plants from the garden store, plant them in the same way you would plant any other plant, dig a hole, put the plant in and water it well. The woodier herb plants like rosemary, thyme and oregano are better grown from established plants.

Growing herbs outside - Pick a spot that gets at least 6 hours of direct sun each day. Do not plant where water stands or runs during heavy rains. If you don't have good drainage raised beds will fix it. Add dead leaves and compost to the soil. If you are starting your plants from seeds, put some dirt in a bucket, add a few packets of seeds and scatter them over the soil and water well. The plants will begin to sprout in about a week.

Dry some of your harvest so you'll have dried herbs through the winter. You'll never go back to those sad little plastic containers from the grocery store. The shelf life of many herbs is one to two years as long as they are not exposed to light, heat and air. Leaves keep their flavor best when they are stored whole and crushed just before use. Seeds for cooking should be stored whole and ground up as needed.

Keep them well watered, make sure your soil has drainage, make sure to plant them in a place they will get sun, but not too much, feed them a little and they will pay you back many times over. Never use fertilizer, just good dirt with some mulch from the back yard and some alfalfa pellets or some cow manure. Continue to plant seeds every couple of weeks all season long so you will always have fresh herbs available. Most herbs reach their peak for flavor before flowering, that is the best time to harvest leaves or seeds for storage.

Growing herbs inside - Growing herbs inside requires good drainage, sunlight and water. Put an inch of gravel at the bottom of each pot for drainage. Herbs grow best inside in a location with bright, filtered light. A south or west windowsill provides a good spot for an herb garden. Keep plenty of space between your plants to allow for air circulation, Herbs in smaller containers tend to dry out faster, water more often if needed.

Fertilizing - Too much fertilizer produces poor tasting herbs. Heavy applications of fertilizer, will decrease the concentration of essential oils. Don't fertilizing your herbs in winter. Most plants, especially the warm-climate ones, are asleep and not growing in winter.

Compost is the best fertilizer around. Just toss a handful or two of it around the base of the plant. Mix in lots of organic matter to the soil like mulched leaves to improve texture and drainage.
Plants do not eat fertilizer, they use photosynthesis to eat light. It is amazing but that is what they do. Giving them too much fertilizer is like taking too many vitamins.
*)Harvey Robinson is a long time grower of herbs and webmaster of http://www.yearstoyourhealth.com/herbs/ and http://www.eatmoreherbs.com/growing_herbs/

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/i-love-growing-herbs-133091.html
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